September 1998

<<< Tuesday, 1 - Tuesday, 8 September 1998

What a lazy week it’s been. The weather continued to be perfect, warm with cloudless skies all day long. We ventured out several times to the nearby seaside town of White Rock, which true to its name has a huge white (painted) rock on the beach. It is a picturesque town, with a long promenade along the seafront, a pier and numerous flower-covered restaurants overlooking the sea. Valerie was pleased to find that Canada has many English-style tea rooms, some of which we had to check out. It was Valerie’s birthday on the 1st which provided yet another opportunity to try out one of the better local restaurants. Valerie will have to wait for the majority of her birthday cards as we have not called off our mail recently, however she managed to buy two new outfits to compensate.

George continued to make the most of the Internet hook-up and the US Open tennis competition on TV kept Valerie entertained. The VHS ham radio has been disappointing throughout Canada and Alaska, with hardly any radioactivity other than near a few large towns. Also, hopes of using the system as a means of sending Emails have disappeared since few areas in North America offer a phone patch facility for travellers. A big plus has been the acoustic coupler working with every Canadian pay phone we used, this compares to about 7 out of 10 phones in the US.

Wednesday, 9 September 1998

After a very relaxing 12 days, it was time to move on. We caught the noon ferry from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay, which lies at the southern end of Vancouver Island. The crossing took nearly two hours. Compared to the English Channel the C$152 (62 pounds) was a very good value, bearing in mind that we are 55 feet long. It was a pleasant crossing, part of which was past tree-covered islands. Surprisingly upon landing the traffic was very busy, through winding roads but as usual, Valerie had no trouble finding the campground. We found we were camped next to a couple from Switzerland who had purchased a 34-foot Holiday Rambler motor home and had been touring for about one and a half years. The husband had suffered a stroke while in Mexico but refused to go home as he was enjoying every moment. We frequently eat out but normally do not make any comments in our travelogue since it would get repetitious. However, today’s meal was of note, as we found close to the campground an English-style pub with a lot of character. Established in 1858, the gardens in The Four Mile Pub were a mass of flowers, so we ate what turned out to be an excellent meal, outside under a flower-laden pergola.

Thursday, 10 September 1998

Friday, 11 September 1998

Saturday, 12 September 1998

Today’s main event was provided by a mouse who has decided to live in our RV. Valerie has several times seen a black shape move across dark parts of the RV and was convinced it was a huge spider. However this evening the mouse must have been hungry since it decided to make several dashes while we were watching TV. It has now disappeared and Valerie refuses to go to bed until George catches it. It could be a long night! Earlier today we move camp to Parksville which is some 80 miles north of Victoria along Vancouver Island’s east coast. On route, we were only able to obtain occasional glimpses of the coastline and a few of the distant islands but it sure looked good.

Sunday, 13 September 1998

Vancouver Island is about 250 miles long, averages 55 miles wide and is mainly covered by mountains about 5,000 feet high. George wanted to see something of the island's western coast which is somewhat rugged and is only accessible by one road. On route, several huge lakes caught our attention, partly as they were very picturesque but mainly because of the solitude and lack of any development. Upon arrival at the coast, dense sea fog blanketed the beach for much of the time but in some ways, it added to the charm. After walking for some distance along the sandy Long Beach which lies within the Pacific Rim National Park, we drove on to the Tofino peninsular. It is difficult to see the beach or sea along most of the coastal roads due to the dense tree-lined rugged terrain, which is a shame since it is a very attractive coastline. The small town of Tofino lies in a beautiful location, surrounded by numerous islands with views of successive mountain ranges in the distance. We watched seaplanes, boats and kayaks, which were coming and going all the time, this type of activity seems to typify the Canadian outdoor lifestyle.

Monday, 14 September 1998

Our unwelcome visitor will not be travelling with us when we leave tomorrow, having succumbed to a strategically placed piece of chocolate! After local shopping, laundry, cleaning and some reading, the day seemed to be over in no time.

Tuesday, 15 September 1998

The weather is still perfect, apparently better than normal but is due to cool down later this month, so time to head further south. We caught the 3.00 p.m. ferry from Victoria to Port Angeles which lies on the north coast of Washington, close to the Olympic Mountains. The one-and-a-half-hour crossing was calm and some porpoises and seals made an appearance, as well as millions of small fish, which thousands of seagulls were enjoying. The US immigration formalities were completed as we boarded the ferry in Canada, where our request for a four months stay was to be granted six months, which is tempting! Customs clearance was carried out upon landing in the US, which was no more than a "where do you live"? to which Valerie, who was driving the car behind, replied - with him!

Wednesday, 16 September 1998

The entrance to the Olympic National Park lies just to the south of our campground, so with another brilliant sunny morning, we drove into the park and up about 6,000 feet to the Hurricane Ridge Visitors Centre. After coffee, we hiked for some distance through some beautiful mountain terrain with the snow-covered Mount Olympus in the distance. It was so quiet that our footsteps seemed to disturb the peace. Nothing seemed to be moving other than an occasional cricket jumping out of our way. The mountains rise steeply along the western coastline, intercepting the moisture-rich air masses from the Pacific. Some 200 inches of rain a year falls in the west, producing rainforests. However 30 miles to the east on the other side of the mountains, less than 17 inches of rain falls.

To the east of our campground is the aptly named Dungeness National Wildlife refuge. The terrain is very similar to its namesake in England being a somewhat flat and desolate area, with a long narrow spit of land extending into the sea. Being America, it claims to be the world's longest natural sand spit. It is some five miles long and we have to admit more attractive than Kent’s offering. We walked some way along the water's edge where we saw harbour seals and a few sea birds. The area must have major storms since the whole coastline is littered with driftwood. In this case, the driftwood is complete trees, typically 50 feet long and up to five feet in diameter. Most look attractive as they have been bleached white by the sun and would make an ideal focal point in a large garden.

Thursday, 17 September 1998

The majority of the Washington coastline seems to be highly indented, with numerous inlets, islands and lakes. The terrain is so confusing that at times it is difficult to know if one is looking at a large lake or the sea. In places, the sea can be on both sides of the road at the same time and then further on it disappears. It is all very attractive so we moved just 40 miles to the east to make it easier to see more of the Olympic Peninsula, camping at the SKP park at Chimacum.

Friday, 18 - Saturday, 19 September 1998

The local seaside town of Port Townsend is one of the oldest cities in the state, having numerous examples of Victorian architecture, complete with turrets and is designated a National Historic Landmark. Perhaps the most unusual of the town's attractions is the Tree of Heaven, reputedly a gift from a Chinese emperor in the 1860s. Today the town is more famous for making wooden boats and has just held its annual wooden boat regatta. After a delicious fish and chips lunch, we strolled around the waterfront shops and watched the ferry leaving for yet another of the many islands around the coast. It is an interesting town but not worth a detour.

Sunday, 20 September 1998

We needed to be in Yakima by Wednesday where the car is booked in for repair so we headed further south. After 150 miles we felt we had gone far enough for the day, so we stopped at Silver Creek where we camped facing a large lake. Campgrounds vary enormously and this one sets itself apart with its wide variety of mature trees which provide pleasant privacy for some of the campsites. Outside the camp office, life-size bronze statues surround a large pond full of goldfish. At night flaming torches held by the statues add further to the atmosphere.

Monday, 21 September 1998

A quiet day partly spent enjoying the perfect weather and partly obtaining medication for George, who has developed an infection. If nothing else it allowed us to have a closer look at the American health system. The visit to the local medical centre first involved temperature, blood pressure, weight and specimen checks, followed by a long series of questions from the assistant. The consultation with the doctor lasted about 15 minutes, culminating in a discussion about the cost of the various treatment options. Did George want the cheap but maybe less effective drug or the very much more expensive but better drug? Maybe it’s the way things back home may go.

Tuesday, 22 September 1998

To cross over the Rocky Mountains we ascended the White Pass which peaks at 4,500 feet. On route, we had several good views of the huge snow-covered Mount Rainier. Even though today was warm and sunny, within a few weeks the pass could be closed due to heavy snowfalls. The descent followed the fast-flowing Tieton River for about twenty miles. It’s a whitewater river where several groups were getting very wet running the rapids in rubber rafts. Once through the mountains, the terrain was parched and brown but irrigation in the valley enables vast areas of fruit trees to be successfully grown. Our campground in Yakima is very disappointing, particularly when we compare it to the peaceful and quiet we have just left. Today’s campground has small sites, most of which are occupied by long-stay tenants, which in our opinion always changes the atmosphere for the worse. However, we have little choice, since it is the best available while we get the car repaired, which is scheduled to take all day tomorrow.

Wednesday, 23 September 1998

Indeed, as Valerie predicted the car repair is going to take longer than a day. The main job to replace the engine oil seal was completed by mid-afternoon. However, when repairing the ABS it was found that a previous repair had not been carried out correctly and critical parts are missing. As usual, the required parts are not in stock and would not be available until Friday. The only consolation is that we can use the car tomorrow. so at least we can do some shopping and maybe a little local sightseeing.

Thursday, 24 September 1998

Apples are big business in Washington. Washington produces 60% of the apples consumed in the USA, as well as exporting around the world, including the UK. We are in the middle of a huge fruit-growing area and the apple-picking season is just getting underway. Masses of wooden boxes line the edge of orchards, which will soon be filled mainly by Mexican labour who come north for the season. Nearby is the Fruit Growers Visitor Centre where we had a closer look at the industry. Somewhat surprising was how quickly apples are gathered, sorted and placed into cold storage, where they can remain for up to a year.

Friday, 25 September 1998

Saturday, 26 September 1998

A few weeks ago Kevin upstaged his Dad by having a video link for the family Net conference. Not to be outdone and to aid in editing the 20 or so camcorder video tapes we have so far taken, it was off to the shops to buy a Studio 400 editor. Having found one on offer, the rest of the day was given over to George playing with his latest toy.

Sunday, 27 September 1998

At virtually every campground we find that most people are friendly and want to pass the time of day. in particular, if our fellow campers are Escapee members. Most SKPs are full-timers, many have retired and sold their house to give them the freedom to travel without care or material ties. Our SKP neighbour recently retired from the US airforce at the age of 50 and is now travelling full time running a business selling phone hook-ups to campground owners. This made George prick up his ears as it could mean the dreaded acoustic coupler could be consigned to the trash can. However, hopes were dashed when told that the device will not available until next year! Mid-morning we moved on to Pendleton some 80 miles east along Interstate 82, which for the most part was almost empty.

Monday, 28 September 1998

We spent some hours at the Tamastslikt Cultural Institute where we were reminded of the poor way the indigenous Indian population were treated by the white man, as the west was conquered during the mid-eighteenth century. Time and again wars were started by the white man, as he forcibly took lands which had been assigned to the Indians by treaty. The Indians also suffered badly from white man diseases, to which they had no natural immunity. The display cleverly takes one on a journey from early history and mythology through to the way the Indians would like to see their future development. Interestingly many of their old stories and fables are based on the coyote. They regard it as a clever animal, from which they have learnt a lot. The Institute is splendidly located in a complex consisting of a championship golf course, RV park, hotel resort and casino, where Valerie could not resist the urge and squandered $5 on the slots.

Tuesday, 29 September 1998

Yet another brilliantly clear, sunny morning, which always makes it easier to get George out for his early morning walk. After breakfast, an hour or more was spent downloading lots of messages and files. Only a few campgrounds provide a phone hook-up, this one is free and is located in the laundry meaning that an outlet is also available to power the computer. Our 130-mile route today was over the Blue Mountain foothills, however, being autumn they are a parched brown. Talk about the ultimate in tow vehicles, en route we were overtaken by an RV towing a helicopter, the driver/pilot will never have to worry about traffic jams again! At La Grande, we turned north where for thirty or so miles the terrain is lush farmland due to extensive irrigation. We climbed through attractive mountains and then followed a river through deep canyons. Our destination was just beyond the town of Joseph and the large attractive Wallowa Lake. Shortly after settling in, several deer munched their way around the RV, before moving down to the river.

Wednesday, 30 September 1998

The Indian summer continues and today was yet another day without any clouds throughout the day. We had to smile when the weather channel announced that it was snowing in Alaska, which it seems we only left a short while ago. Our campground is at the base of towering mountains, which are part of the 10,000-foot Wallowa Mountain range. The 5,700-foot-deep Hells Canyon lies to the north, which is deeper than the Grand Canyon. For good reason, the area is called The Switzerland of America. We came here almost by chance, since we just picked up the map, put our finger on a place and said let us go there. As it turned out the local town of Joseph, named after the famous Chief of the Nez Perce Indians, is a major bronze casting centre. It is a small town with few shops but most seem to be selling art objects, in particular the most beautiful bronze statues.

The morning was spent at the Valley Bronze Gallery where they have the most impressive range of bronze statues. After watching a video showing the numerous steps involved during the manufacturing process, we were off to the factory to watch the process for real. We were amazed at how many steps are involved, so explaining why bronze statues are expensive. It is called the "Lost Wax" process, which starts with the artist’s completed sculpture, usually made in clay, wax or wood. The next step must give the artist a heart attack since the completed masterpiece is cut into pieces, so silicon rubber moulds can be made. The rubber mould is then coated in plaster, cut in half, and filled with wax, the wax replica is coated in slurry, and put into a furnace where the wax runs out, so leaving a cavity in the now rock-hard slurry, into which the bronze is poured. The various bronze parts are then welded together, join marks removed and finally coloured by a process called patina. During the factory tour, we saw hundreds of beautiful statues, most of which are made in limited edition. The statues ranged from delicate figurines to a massive fifteen-foot-high, two-ton bull. >>>

Home