March 1998
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Sunday, 1 March 1998
We were up early for a Net meeting with Kevin, June and the grandchildren where
we were able to have a transatlantic family conference lasting over an hour for
the cost of a local phone call. Having caught up on the family news we set
off for Seligman, Arizona stopping on the
way at the Hoover Dam so Mac and Jane could do the dam tour.
Today is Jane's birthday and typical of American restaurants they conjured up a
cake topped with a sparkler in no time, which was presented by all the staff
including the chef to the refrains of happy birthday. Today Seligman
is an isolated town, bypassed by the I40, whose claim to fame is being The
birthplace of Historic Route 66, originally called America's Road". It is
questionable how true this "Mother" claim is but it is certain that much of the
towns early prosperity is due to the generations of railroaders and cowboy
families from the huge surrounding ranches.
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Travelling further
east along the I40 we climbed to over 7,000 feet
as we passed through
Williams where we were treated to
spectacular views of snow-covered fields basking
in bright sunlight and a clear blue sky.
On the western edge of
Flagstaff, we headed south and
descended 2,500 feet via the very steep and
windy road through
Oak Creek Canyon which was also
snow-covered until we reached
Sedona where we camped for the
night.
The afternoon found us exploring the numerous
tourist shops in the older part of town, which
sits in a valley surrounded by dramatic red rock
mountains which have provided the back-cloth for
many western films. On the way back to the
campground an Open House sign caught our eye so
we decided to visit the house. It turned
out to be a large single-story building with
magnificent views of the mountains in all
directions which could be ours for a mere
$659,000. Notwithstanding we decided that
we would be better off spending our money in the
excellent gourmet restaurant within the
campground, where Mac decided to complete the
day by ordering a bottle of 1964 vintage Stone
Street wine to accompany the meal for a mere
$60! |
Tuesday, 3 March 1998
Continuing south mainly along the I17 we initially drove through dramatic red
rock mountain scenery and then started the descent from 4,500 to below 2,000
feet as we approached Phoenix.
During the past couple of weeks, Mac had worked hard to obtain information from
numerous golfers about golfing opportunities, which lead us to book the Happy
Trails Golf Resort near Sun City which was today's
destination. As we approached the campground we were somewhat surprised to
see prisoners in the traditional chain gang black and white striped outfits
picking oranges from the roadside trees, guarded by gun-carrying warders. The
campground is built around an 18-hole golf course, so we made the most of the
opportunity by playing a very enjoyable 9 holes during the afternoon, which was
followed by a BBQ and then Pegs and Jokers, which by the end of the evening
brought the score to a 3 to 2 advantage to the men.
Wednesday, 4 March 1998
At 08.00 the golfers teed off on the adjacent resort while Valerie took her
exercise walking around the vast campground, which is so large that our RV site
is located some 1.1 miles from the entrance. Happy Trails is not a campground
but a membership community development selling lots of ground to adults over 55.
Lots cost $20,000 upwards plus annual dues, and the majority of owners
electing to erect a mobile home rather than use an RV. The community has
several swimming pools, numerous tennis courts as well as a vast range of
activities and craft rooms, however unbelievable to us, the resort does not have
a restaurant, the nearest being some 7 miles to the east. If nothing else
it provided a good excuse to get out the BBQ and enjoy the pleasant evening air
and spectacular sunset.
Thursday, 5 March 1998
A message from June reporting a problem with the central heating in Eastfield
lead to phoning our property management service, which unfortunately was
followed by a problem with the computer, leading to a trip to Radio Shack and a
temporary repair by George. Valerie drove the golf cart for the 18-hole
game in the afternoon but it was so dark by the time we got to the 18th that it
became more of a game of chance. Mac was somewhat surprised to see so many
custom golf carts including one with a Rolls Royce radiator front topped with
the flying emblem.
Friday, 6 March - Monday, 9 March 1998
The golfers continued to play 18 holes most days, the last game having an 07.40
tee time meant a cool start which, however, was more than compensated by a good
game with George breaking 100 for the first time since Mac & Jane arrived.
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On the last evening of their visit, Mac and Jane treated us to an excellent
steak at the Outback Steak House, nicely rounding off an enjoyable four-week
visit by M&J.
Pegs and Jokers ended in a win for the girls!
Tuesday, 10 March - Thursday, 12 March 1998
As the awning repair appointment in Tucson was not until Friday we
decided to stay at the SKP park at Casa Grande for a few days. For the
first night, they only had boondocking space available but we were able to move
to a site with full hookups for the rest of our stay.
The notebook computer had developed a more serious problem with the input power
connector, so George spent a complete day taking the whole thing apart but could
only carry out a better repair since it was not possible to obtain the correct
replacement part. Time was spent shopping, practising on the golf
driving range and preparing our itinerary for the coming couple of months before
joining the caravan to Alaska at the end of May.
Friday, 13 March 1998
When we arrived at All RV Repairs in Tucson we found thankfully that the
parts had arrived which took about three hours to fit. George was not happy with
the result since they had failed to recognise that the roller had also been
damaged and as a result, the awning no longer retracts smoothly. However,
given the choice of waiting another week for a replacement roller for $200 or
living with a minor problem, we decided to go with it. On the way back we
stopped at a car wash and spent some time washing the RV which was followed by
an overdue 3,000-mile oil change. On return to the campground it was
polishing time, so all in all it turned out to be RV day rather than bad luck
day.
Saturday, 14 March 1998
It rained on and off most of the day however our mail arrived mid-afternoon
leading to a flurry of excitement catching up on the news (history) but for once
the mail did not have any nasty surprises or bills.
Sunday, 15 March 1998
At dawn, the rain was still in the air so we decided to wait one more day before
moving north. Visited the local Factory Shops which failed to tempt us
into spending any money, is this a sign of getting older?
Monday, 16 March - Tuesday, 17 March 1998
Time to start moving north so we drove to Big River,
CA which is a nice campground on the side of the turquoise-coloured Colorado
River. Upon arrival, we learnt via our message service that Sam &
Marrianne were hoping to see us as they had recently arrived back in Phoenix,
which unfortunately was where we had just travelled 200 miles from!
The route to Big River was mostly through open desert, which during the
last month or so has become surprisingly green and over the last few days
wildflowers have started to blossom. Some parts of Arizona have had
their wettest winter for fifteen years leading to a profusion of desert flowers.
Amazingly, for most of the year, the desert is dry and brown but in no time vast
areas of predominately yellow and purple flowers with occasional swaths of light
brown have appeared. Being close to the river we were awoken by the
unusual sound of a dawn chorus from numerous birds including the grackle which
is a shiny highly iridescent black bird with a long wedge-shaped tail. As
we planned to stay for a few days Valerie took the opportunity to treat herself
to a perm, putting George's long hair to shame.
Wednesday, 18 March 1998
With a few days to spare before we need to move further west George announced
that he would like to visit Laughlin which is a
mini Las Vegas. Laughlin, which is in
Nevada but lying very near the California border and just across
the Colorado River from Arizona, was little more than a nameless
bait shack in 1970. Today, however, it is a gambling Mecca in the middle of the
desert but much more focused on gambling for adults than Las Vegas.
There are hardly any attractions, illuminations or free entertainment to appeal
to young families.
Thursday, 19 March 1998
We crossed over the Colorado River into
Bullhead City where we were delighted to find a gas station where we
could fill the RV and car at $0.89 a gallon (0.15 pounds per litre).
This will probably be the cheapest gas we will find for a while since we expect
to be in California for some weeks, which due to its tougher
environmental legislation and higher taxes has some of the most expensive gas in
the state, but still only 19p per litre.
The SR95 south followed the river for some distance, along the side of which,
masses of wildflowers were in full blossom. We stopped overnight at
Calico where we met a delightful English couple who
upon retirement 8 years ago, decided to emigrate to Canada where they
acquired dual citizenship. We spent several hours chewing the cud and
putting the world to right, upon departure they insisted we visit them on our
way to Alaska, which we may well do.
A mockingbird decided to sing during the night sitting on a branch just above
the RV, keeping Valerie awake most of the night but as usual, George slept
through it all, the sleep of the just!
Friday, 20 March 1998
We drove west through Barstow which is yet another
town founded on and even today still depends heavily on the railroad, however,
it also appears to be the scrap capital of the west since all we could see was
miles of scrap stuff of every description.
The road continued through the desert countryside but after passing through the
Mojave Desert the countryside started to
rapidly change as the road climbed into the Sierra
Nevada foothills, passing hundreds of wind-powered electricity
generators on the hilltops. The road then continues through the
Tehachapi Pass which peaks at 3,793 feet and
then descends for 14 miles through spectacular mountain scenery. In stark
contrast to the dark green of the desert, the vegetation through the pass was a
lush and vivid green. We marvelled at the ingenuity of the railway
engineers who managed to construct a line through such difficult terrain, in
fact so difficult that we were amazed as we watched a typical American
half-mile-long train going in a complete circle and coming out through a tunnel
underneath itself!
By early afternoon we had arrived at Edison just to
the south of Bakersfield, where we camped in
what looked more like an orange grove. Unfortunately, we were about two weeks
too late since the majority of oranges had been picked but there was still
enough for those who made an effort by borrowing the very long handle grab from
the campground office.
Saturday, 21 March 1998
It was then on through Bakersfield, which lies near the southern end of
the San Joaquin Valley which is an
important shipping and marketing centre for oil, natural gas and farm products
of which we saw plenty of evidence in the form of oil storage facilities and the
like. It is also known as California's country music capital but we did not see
any evidence. We are now in a lush and fertile farming country where
virtually anything appears to grow well, with nuts and fruit trees doing
particularly well, growing in abundance for hundreds of miles. We had been told
it was a good time to visit the area since the blossom is at its best in March
and a 68-mile route near Fresno is of particular
note. We saw some blossom as we arrived but we are not sure if El Nino has
affected the timing or if we are not yet in the right area. The KOA site
at Visalia is laid out in a pleasant grassy
location where we will spend a couple of days while we explore the area.
The snow-covered Sierra Nevada mountains
which extend for 400 miles and are about 70
miles wide contain 6 peaks over 14,000 feet that
are visible from our campground, so in bright
sunlight and a warm temperature we set off to
explore. Route 198 initially passes
through miles of orchards and then gently
ascends through the lush wildflower-covered
countryside, passing the picturesque
Lake Kaweah
which is filled by the north, middle, east and
south fork Kaweah rivers. |
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Once into the
Sequoia National Park, the road became steep
with numerous hairpins as it climbed to 6,400
feet at the Lodgepole visitors centre, affording
spectacular views most of the way.
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The visitors centre complex was closed as it was
almost completely buried in snow and ice, which
in places had formed into huge translucent
sheets which the light made appear a beautiful
light blue |
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At the Giant Forest, we stopped to stare at the huge
Redwood trees which towered over two hundred feet above us. The Sherman Tree is
a particularly prize specimen of redwood as it is about 2,500 years old and at
274 feet high and 102 feet around the base, it is the largest living thing on
earth
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We were above the snow line at 5,000 feet and soon the roadside snow was
towering above the car where it had been ploughed a few weeks earlier.
Surprisingly for a sunny Sunday, there were very few visitors to the mountains
however a few families were sledging on the slopes or walking through the forest
using snow shoes.
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We have
seen some strange roadside places serving
refreshments but when we came across one in the
shape of a huge cow we just had to stop and at
least take its photo |
Monday, 23 March - Wednesday, 25 March 1998
The blossom trail was a little disappointing in that we were too late for some
varieties and too early for others. However the countryside was full of
fresh growth and we gained a better appreciation of the variety of things grown
which included oranges, lemons, grapefruits, nectarines, tangerines almonds,
pecans and walnuts.
During the afternoon a storm came in from the west producing heavy rain and at
about six p.m. the power to the campground was cut, but like other RVers, we
were barely inconvenienced as we were able to run the generator to cook the
evening meal. Power cuts and brownouts (low voltage) are fairly common in
the states, particularly during storms which can contain numerous lightning
strikes. George went out after dark to check if the power supply had been
restored, however, he returned even quicker when he found a black widow spider
sheltering from the rain in the campground's power supply box! As the
heavy rain continued throughout Wednesday we decided to stay for another day
spending part of the day shopping.
Thursday, 26 March 1998
We travelled north about 125 miles mainly along Interstate 5 where on arrival at
Gustine, CA we camped for two nights at the
San Luis Creek Reservoir, where
most sites have views of the lake and surrounding grass-covered hills.
Upon arrival, we were somewhat surprised to find that nobody else was staying at
the campground. We settled in and after about two hours we were taken
completely by surprise when an RV arrived we found out that it was the same
English couple we meet 7 days ago in Calico now some 400 miles to the
south. What a small world it is. They were on their way home to Canada
and had about 1,200 miles to cover in six days so they decided to explore
the local countryside. Together we visited the local Andersen restaurant
which claims to have the best split pea soup in the world, which was delicious.
During the meal we learnt more about some of the best in Canada, which should
serve us well when we visit in a couple of months.
Friday, 27 March 1998
We had hardly said goodbye to Eric and Barbara when an RV arrived from within
which came an English accent. It turns out that Dave and Penny have been
touring for a year and we were the first English couple they had come across.
They had purchased an eight-year-old class A in Oregon and during their travels
had experienced various mechanical problems as well as two broken windscreens
which had cost them over $2,000 for replacements, however, they had enjoyed
every moment and were very sorry to be returning home.
Saturday, 28 March 1998
The wildflowers continued to be spectacular though out the drive to
Morgan Hill where we camped for two nights,
being the nearest campground to San Jose and the
homes of Sikko and Iain. The hillsides were covered in a blaze of various
coloured wildflowers including the California poppy which is the state flower,
which is faring much better than the state animal, the grizzly bear being killed
off years ago.
During the afternoon we visited the
Winchester Mystery House in San Jose which was originally an
8-room farmhouse until it was purchased by Sarah Winchester in the late 1800s.
The Winchester family
owned the patent of the famous rifle of the same
name from which she inherited a huge fortune and
was advised by a fortune teller she would die
unless she kept on building her house for the
rest of her life. So for every hour of
every day for over thirty years, the farmhouse
was converted into a mansion with 160 rooms,
2,000 doors, 13 bathrooms, 10,000 windows, 47
fireplaces, blind closets, secret passageways
and 40 staircases, the house is so complex that
even the owner and servants needed maps to find
their way. |
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Sarah Winchester was very intelligent but was driven by the words of the fortune
teller and the guidance she received from the spirits every evening.
Unfortunately, the spirits gave her conflicting messages which frequently
resulted in knocking down recently installed rooms and starting over again.
It was then off to visit George's ex-Philips colleagues where he caught up on
all the changes and challenges within the company and even though a reminder was
unnecessary it made him more than glad that he was retired.
Monday, 30 March - Tuesday, 31 March 1998
After a visit to Camping World which is a supermarket for camping equipment, we
drove the 50 miles to Sonoma where we stayed with
Pat & Dick for four days. Again throughout the route hillsides covered in
wildflowers of every colour were a delight to the eye. We are now in the heart
of California's wine region so we spent some hours driving through the Alexander
and Napa Valley where vines were planted in
vast rows for hundreds of miles.
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