<<< Tuesday,
1st October 1996
Several high mountain ranges stretch for thousands of
kilometres all along the coastline and give rise to numerous rivers in deep
gorges which flow into attractive coves and then out over golden sand bars to
the sea. The whole of the coast is famous for the large waves and mainly sandy
beaches that produce ideal surfing conditions. Victoria,
Heralds and Wilderness Bay
are particularly attractive, all of which are now being rapidly developed for
tourism following SA's successful transition from apartheid.
Wednesday, 2nd October 1996
The Garden Route stretches for about 150 km along the south
coast from Knysna in the east to beyond
Mussel Bay in the west. Having now explored much
of the area, at what we are told is the best time of the year, we found it
attractive but not what we expected.
On the
way to Oudtshoorn
which is about 80 km inland from Mussel Bay,
we stopped at one of the many ostrich farms in
the area. South Africa produces about 90% of the
world's supply and this area has been the
ostrich farming centre for some 150 years. We
toured the Highgate farm learning that ostrich
lives for over 50 years, laying in captivity
about fifty eggs a year each weighing around 1.2
kg. Every part of the bird is used, the feathers
for dusters (and striptease!), the skin for
handbags and the flesh is a cross between white
and red meat. |
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We continue to move west
through several mountain passes, the most
spectacular being the
Seweweekspoort which goes through a
deep valley in the
Klien-Swirtberge mountains. This pass
is world famous for having spectacular rock
layers in numerous colours which have been
contorted in every direction by earth's
movements millions of years ago, some of the
layers rise vertically while others almost form
a complete circle. We had lunch in the village
of Matjiesfontein
which for about 150 years many of the rich and
famous would stay in search of quiet. At this time of the year, the
roadside through the mountains is ablaze with
wildflowers of every colour, particularly vivid
oranges and purples. We traversed the
Waboomsberge
mountains via the
Rooihoogtepas to cross into the
Koo Valley which
is a rich fruit-growing area and marks the
beginning of the wine route which we start to
explore tomorrow! It is a very wide flat valley
which is covered in vines and fruit trees, many
of which are in blossom with colours ranging
from white to beautiful lilac. We are staying for three
nights at The Grand Hotel in
Robertson which is one of South
Africa's more famous wine regions. The town is
surrounded by the
Langeberg mountains and at this time of
year, some of the peaks which rise to 2,500mts
are snow-covered. |
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A local farmer runs tractors
trips from his farm in the valley to a hiker's
lodge located on the mountaintop. It involves
very steep climbs along torturously narrow paths
with shear drops at many points. George took the
opportunity to walk up some way hoping that his
heart would appreciate the exercise! We stopped
at various points to enjoy the breathtaking
views as well as to take a close look at the
protea (the national flower of SA) that grows
wild on the mountainside. We also enjoyed
soaking up the sun at the hiking lodge as well
as a glass of the local muscadel. |
Some rural parts of SA stick
to the tradition of shops closing from lunchtime
on Saturday and reopening Monday morning,
Sundays are days of rest and church going. We
spent the day at the Avalon Springs Hotel in
Montagu which is a
timeshare resort located on a spa spring,
nestling at the closed end of a rocky valley.
The weather was perfect without a cloud in the
sky and the spa water in the various pools
ranges from a pleasant 25C to 35C. A delightful
day. |
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Continuing our journey west we arrived in the
town of
Strand
where we are staying at the Strand Pavilion
timeshare resort. It is located on the beach and
our apartment has a lovely view over the bay and
mountains which today are topped with white
clouds. During the route, we went through the
famous Stellenbosch wine area which is located
in a very wide flat valley which is full of
vineyards and fruit orchards. We also had our
first distant view of Table Top mountain which
today had its tablecloth on! |
Tuesday, 8th October 1996
We have been exploring some of the mountain passes and a
number of the local wineries, many of which are large impressive buildings in a
variety of architectural styles located in delightful settings. The arrangement
for wine tasting varies from a free sip in a small glass at the bar to being
seated at an imposing table with a variety of glasses, wines, spittoons and dry
biscuits. Normally there is a charge of a few Rand for the latter. We are both
putting on weight since the food is excellent at the many local restaurants and
prices compared to the UK prices are about half!
Valerie continues to suffer from bad pain in her neck and
during the past few days, she has also developed pains in her hips making
walking also painful. It may be due to the malaria tablets we are both taking
and unfortunately need to continue to take for the next few weeks even though we
are now out of the infected area.
Wednesday, 9th October 1996
Hermanus Bay
is THE place to see whales and we were not disappointed. It is an incredible
experience watching these enormous creatures leaping, breaching and generally
enjoying themselves in the water. The Southern Rights whale is the most common
in the bay and we watched in awe as a mother and baby swam incredibly close to
us along the rocky shoreline. It is difficult to be sure but there must have
been over twenty whales in the bay at the time.
Thursday, 10th October 1996
Phoned the local doctor in the hope of getting an appointment
for Valerie before we moved on. Very surprised and pleased when the receptionist
said he could see her within the hour. We were there in no time as the clinic
was only two blocks away, which turned out to be a very upmarket complex
comprising an optician, dentistry, pharmacy as well as a group practice of four
doctors. After a lengthy consultation, the doctor did not believe it was the
malaria pills but offered the opinion that it might be rheumatism! He prescribed
some painkillers which were dispensed immediately for a total cost of R90
including the doctor's time! If nothing else his opinion put both our minds at
rest somewhat.
In a slightly happier frame of mind, we then visited the
Paarl Rock brandy distillery for the tour and
tasting. The guide was excellent, not only explaining the ins and outs of brandy
production but in a very nice way explaining how to drink brandy to its best
advantage. After which we decided to have a light lunch in a very
up-market-looking restaurant, and ordered toasted sandwiches! They were served
together with a good size salad topped with a nasturtium flower, which included
unlimited coffee and cost R9 each - incredible value.
Friday, 11 October 1996
We are staying for the next seven days at The Seapointer which
is located close to the beach in Sea Point
which is on the east coast just to the south of Cape Town. It rained for much of
the day so we spent a few hours exploring a vast shopping mall which would put
many UK shopping centres to shame.
We explored on foot much of
Sea Point's beachfront in the morning and
then Doug and Ivy surprised us by announcing
that they had tickets for all of us to see the
matinee performance of the Les Miserables
musical. Stig Rossen was excellent in the role
of Jean Valjean as was Richard Kinsley as Javert.
The scenery and props were extremely elaborate,
particularly the student's barricade. It was an
excellent presentation which we both thoroughly
enjoyed, after which we went to The Waterfront
in Cape Town which being Saturday evening was
milling with thousands of tourists, after some
window shopping we had a pleasant Chinese meal
overlooking the harbour. |
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After an early morning walk,
we initially drove along the western edge of the
Cape peninsular which has a rocky mountainous
coastline, the road barely hangs onto the side
of the mountain with long vertical drops to the
sea below. The road over Chapman's peak was
completed in 1922 and is regarded as one of the
world's most spectacular marine drives cut into
the cliffs, having dramatic views over Cape Town
as well as several fine beaches along its 11km
route. |
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We
then crossed to the eastern side of the
peninsular to Simon's
Town where en route we watched about
5,000 walkers taking part in a charity event,
after which we strolled to
Bolder
Beach
which is home to a colony of Jackass penguins.
Jackass penguins are much smaller than King
penguins and also appear a little clumsy on
land, however, when in the water they are
jet-propelled and can turn with amazing speed. |
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Monday, 14 October 1996
Spend the morning at the Two
Oceans Aquarium which is a modern multilevel complex with numerous large
displays which project what life under the sea must be like. Later we attended a
cocktail reception within our apartment block which surprise, surprise turned
out to be a low-key timeshare sales pitch.
Visited the
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden which is a 528-hectare garden
on the slopes of Table Mountain.
The range of plants is extensive and is predominately from the winter rainfall
region of SA. The garden was in bloom with a large variety of Protea, Ericas and
Cycads. Being our wedding anniversary we went out for dinner at O'Hagans but
George managed to eat something that made him sick during the night.
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Took the cable car to the top
of Table Mountain which provides
magnificent views of all points of the compass.
We had to queue for two hours as each of the two
cable cars only take twenty-five passengers at a
time and to our annoyance pre-booked coaches
were taking priority. The weather was ideal
being warm and calm which contrasted strongly to
yesterday when it was very windy and the
mountain was covered in clouds. The top is a
rocky relatively flat area which can be walked
around in about 40 minutes, but with so many
different views it takes a lot longer. Doug
cooked the evening meal again which was
excellent, he certainly is a good cook. |
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Thursday 17 October
The bird park near Hout Bay is
the largest in Africa and contains around three thousand different species.
During the morning we saw birds of every colour and heard so many birds singing
that in some areas it was almost deafening.
Having in the past been on disappointing boat trips that
promised the sight of seals we were delighted to see seals within a few minutes
of leaving Hout Bay harbour on the Drumbeat. Initially, we
followed the shoreline along Chapman Peak and
then almost as soon as we picked up speed several dolphins joined us and raced
in front of the boat on the bow wave. Within half an hour we arrived at
Duiker Island which was covered with hundreds
of Cape Fur seals, most of which are males waiting out their time until they
reach breeding age. The island is not a breeding colony, as the sea can get very
rough and sweeps the pups off. Amongst all the seals was a solitary penguin
which seemed somewhat bemused. The water is crystal clear so we could watch the
seals swimming underwater as well as basking on the surface.
Friday, 17 October 1996
Moved from the Seapointer to a Formule One Hotel near the
airport in readiness for our flight back early Sunday morning. On the way, we
spent some time window shopping in the centre of Cape Town,
after which we had lunch on the waterfront. Doug commented that he believes it
is now much safer in Cape Town than it was say six months ago.
We felt safe and there were plenty of tourists from all over the world milling
around the market and shops.
Saturday, 18 October 1996
It rained for most of the day so we spent the last day window
shopping and watching Twister. If we had known we should have seen a different
film as Twister was one of the in-flight movies on the flight home.
On reflection, our visit to South Africa was a delight. In
particular, we enjoyed the game parks which were very different to anything we
have experienced before. The whole trip was very good but we will remember for
years to come, the elephants at Addo Park, the night drives and
the views from Table Mountain. We will also remember the
townships and the fact that even today many women have to walk miles for water
and still do their washing in the river. It is a sobering thought. We will also
remember the excellent job that Ivy did as a tour guide with frequent references
to numerous books and Doug who had not only prepared an in-depth plan but also
had up his sleeve plans B and C, just in case! >>>