October 1996

<<< Tuesday, 1st October 1996

Several high mountain ranges stretch for thousands of kilometres all along the coastline and give rise to numerous rivers in deep gorges which flow into attractive coves and then out over golden sand bars to the sea. The whole of the coast is famous for the large waves and mainly sandy beaches that produce ideal surfing conditions. Victoria, Heralds and Wilderness Bay are particularly attractive, all of which are now being rapidly developed for tourism following SA's successful transition from apartheid.

Wednesday, 2nd October 1996

The Garden Route stretches for about 150 km along the south coast from Knysna in the east to beyond Mussel Bay in the west. Having now explored much of the area, at what we are told is the best time of the year, we found it attractive but not what we expected.

Thursday, 3rd October 1996

On the way to Oudtshoorn which is about 80 km inland from Mussel Bay, we stopped at one of the many ostrich farms in the area. South Africa produces about 90% of the world's supply and this area has been the ostrich farming centre for some 150 years. We toured the Highgate farm learning that ostrich lives for over 50 years, laying in captivity about fifty eggs a year each weighing around 1.2 kg. Every part of the bird is used, the feathers for dusters (and striptease!), the skin for handbags and the flesh is a cross between white and red meat.

 


We stayed the night at the Kannaland Lodge one of the numerous cheap but good-value B&B hotels which have rapidly emerged all over South Africa since "D" Day.

Friday, 4th October 1996

We continue to move west through several mountain passes, the most spectacular being the Seweweekspoort which goes through a deep valley in the Klien-Swirtberge mountains. This pass is world famous for having spectacular rock layers in numerous colours which have been contorted in every direction by earth's movements millions of years ago, some of the layers rise vertically while others almost form a complete circle. We had lunch in the village of Matjiesfontein which for about 150 years many of the rich and famous would stay in search of quiet.

At this time of the year, the roadside through the mountains is ablaze with wildflowers of every colour, particularly vivid oranges and purples. We traversed the Waboomsberge mountains via the Rooihoogtepas to cross into the Koo Valley which is a rich fruit-growing area and marks the beginning of the wine route which we start to explore tomorrow! It is a very wide flat valley which is covered in vines and fruit trees, many of which are in blossom with colours ranging from white to beautiful lilac.

We are staying for three nights at The Grand Hotel in Robertson which is one of South Africa's more famous wine regions. The town is surrounded by the Langeberg mountains and at this time of year, some of the peaks which rise to 2,500mts are snow-covered.

 

 

 

Saturday, 5th October 1996

 

A local farmer runs tractors trips from his farm in the valley to a hiker's lodge located on the mountaintop. It involves very steep climbs along torturously narrow paths with shear drops at many points. George took the opportunity to walk up some way hoping that his heart would appreciate the exercise! We stopped at various points to enjoy the breathtaking views as well as to take a close look at the protea (the national flower of SA) that grows wild on the mountainside. We also enjoyed soaking up the sun at the hiking lodge as well as a glass of the local muscadel.

Sunday, 6th October 1996

Some rural parts of SA stick to the tradition of shops closing from lunchtime on Saturday and reopening Monday morning, Sundays are days of rest and church going. We spent the day at the Avalon Springs Hotel in Montagu which is a timeshare resort located on a spa spring, nestling at the closed end of a rocky valley. The weather was perfect without a cloud in the sky and the spa water in the various pools ranges from a pleasant 25C to 35C. A delightful day.

 

Monday 7th October 1996

 

Continuing our journey west we arrived in the town of Strand where we are staying at the Strand Pavilion timeshare resort. It is located on the beach and our apartment has a lovely view over the bay and mountains which today are topped with white clouds. During the route, we went through the famous Stellenbosch wine area which is located in a very wide flat valley which is full of vineyards and fruit orchards. We also had our first distant view of Table Top mountain which today had its tablecloth on!

Tuesday, 8th October 1996

We have been exploring some of the mountain passes and a number of the local wineries, many of which are large impressive buildings in a variety of architectural styles located in delightful settings. The arrangement for wine tasting varies from a free sip in a small glass at the bar to being seated at an imposing table with a variety of glasses, wines, spittoons and dry biscuits. Normally there is a charge of a few Rand for the latter. We are both putting on weight since the food is excellent at the many local restaurants and prices compared to the UK prices are about half!

Valerie continues to suffer from bad pain in her neck and during the past few days, she has also developed pains in her hips making walking also painful. It may be due to the malaria tablets we are both taking and unfortunately need to continue to take for the next few weeks even though we are now out of the infected area.

Wednesday, 9th October 1996

Hermanus Bay is THE place to see whales and we were not disappointed. It is an incredible experience watching these enormous creatures leaping, breaching and generally enjoying themselves in the water. The Southern Rights whale is the most common in the bay and we watched in awe as a mother and baby swam incredibly close to us along the rocky shoreline. It is difficult to be sure but there must have been over twenty whales in the bay at the time.

Thursday, 10th October 1996

Phoned the local doctor in the hope of getting an appointment for Valerie before we moved on. Very surprised and pleased when the receptionist said he could see her within the hour. We were there in no time as the clinic was only two blocks away, which turned out to be a very upmarket complex comprising an optician, dentistry, pharmacy as well as a group practice of four doctors. After a lengthy consultation, the doctor did not believe it was the malaria pills but offered the opinion that it might be rheumatism! He prescribed some painkillers which were dispensed immediately for a total cost of R90 including the doctor's time! If nothing else his opinion put both our minds at rest somewhat.

In a slightly happier frame of mind, we then visited the Paarl Rock brandy distillery for the tour and tasting. The guide was excellent, not only explaining the ins and outs of brandy production but in a very nice way explaining how to drink brandy to its best advantage. After which we decided to have a light lunch in a very up-market-looking restaurant, and ordered toasted sandwiches! They were served together with a good size salad topped with a nasturtium flower, which included unlimited coffee and cost R9 each - incredible value.

Friday, 11 October 1996

We are staying for the next seven days at The Seapointer which is located close to the beach in Sea Point which is on the east coast just to the south of Cape Town. It rained for much of the day so we spent a few hours exploring a vast shopping mall which would put many UK shopping centres to shame.

Saturday, 12 October 1996

We explored on foot much of Sea Point's beachfront in the morning and then Doug and Ivy surprised us by announcing that they had tickets for all of us to see the matinee performance of the Les Miserables musical. Stig Rossen was excellent in the role of Jean Valjean as was Richard Kinsley as Javert. The scenery and props were extremely elaborate, particularly the student's barricade. It was an excellent presentation which we both thoroughly enjoyed, after which we went to The Waterfront in Cape Town which being Saturday evening was milling with thousands of tourists, after some window shopping we had a pleasant Chinese meal overlooking the harbour.

 

Sunday, 13 October 1996

After an early morning walk, we initially drove along the western edge of the Cape peninsular which has a rocky mountainous coastline, the road barely hangs onto the side of the mountain with long vertical drops to the sea below. The road over Chapman's peak was completed in 1922 and is regarded as one of the world's most spectacular marine drives cut into the cliffs, having dramatic views over Cape Town as well as several fine beaches along its 11km route.

 

We then crossed to the eastern side of the peninsular to Simon's Town where en route we watched about 5,000 walkers taking part in a charity event, after which we strolled to Bolder Beach which is home to a colony of Jackass penguins. Jackass penguins are much smaller than King penguins and also appear a little clumsy on land, however, when in the water they are jet-propelled and can turn with amazing speed.


Moving further south we drove to Cape Point after entering the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Cape Point has a lighthouse on top of a high peak and marks the western edge of Africa before ships can continue their easterly journey. Somewhat like Lands End, there is very little at Cape Point but it attracts large numbers of tourists all wishing to see where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet.

 


We then moved 3 km west to The
Cape of Good Hope which is the most south-westerly point in Africa where we came across a British lorry with about 24 Brits on board. Many similar vehicles drive the 6,000 or so miles from the UK through to the tip of South Africa and back again in about six months, camping outside or living inside canvas-sided vehicles as weather or the local terrain permits.

Monday, 14 October 1996

Spend the morning at the Two Oceans Aquarium which is a modern multilevel complex with numerous large displays which project what life under the sea must be like. Later we attended a cocktail reception within our apartment block which surprise, surprise turned out to be a low-key timeshare sales pitch.

Tuesday, 15 October 1996

Visited the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden which is a 528-hectare garden on the slopes of Table Mountain. The range of plants is extensive and is predominately from the winter rainfall region of SA. The garden was in bloom with a large variety of Protea, Ericas and Cycads. Being our wedding anniversary we went out for dinner at O'Hagans but George managed to eat something that made him sick during the night.

 

Wednesday 16 October 1996

Took the cable car to the top of Table Mountain which provides magnificent views of all points of the compass. We had to queue for two hours as each of the two cable cars only take twenty-five passengers at a time and to our annoyance pre-booked coaches were taking priority. The weather was ideal being warm and calm which contrasted strongly to yesterday when it was very windy and the mountain was covered in clouds. The top is a rocky relatively flat area which can be walked around in about 40 minutes, but with so many different views it takes a lot longer. Doug cooked the evening meal again which was excellent, he certainly is a good cook.

 

Thursday 17 October

The bird park near Hout Bay is the largest in Africa and contains around three thousand different species. During the morning we saw birds of every colour and heard so many birds singing that in some areas it was almost deafening.

Having in the past been on disappointing boat trips that promised the sight of seals we were delighted to see seals within a few minutes of leaving Hout Bay harbour on the Drumbeat. Initially, we followed the shoreline along Chapman Peak and then almost as soon as we picked up speed several dolphins joined us and raced in front of the boat on the bow wave. Within half an hour we arrived at Duiker Island which was covered with hundreds of Cape Fur seals, most of which are males waiting out their time until they reach breeding age. The island is not a breeding colony, as the sea can get very rough and sweeps the pups off. Amongst all the seals was a solitary penguin which seemed somewhat bemused. The water is crystal clear so we could watch the seals swimming underwater as well as basking on the surface.

Friday, 17 October 1996

Moved from the Seapointer to a Formule One Hotel near the airport in readiness for our flight back early Sunday morning. On the way, we spent some time window shopping in the centre of Cape Town, after which we had lunch on the waterfront. Doug commented that he believes it is now much safer in Cape Town than it was say six months ago. We felt safe and there were plenty of tourists from all over the world milling around the market and shops.

Saturday, 18 October 1996

It rained for most of the day so we spent the last day window shopping and watching Twister. If we had known we should have seen a different film as Twister was one of the in-flight movies on the flight home.

On reflection, our visit to South Africa was a delight. In particular, we enjoyed the game parks which were very different to anything we have experienced before. The whole trip was very good but we will remember for years to come, the elephants at Addo Park, the night drives and the views from Table Mountain. We will also remember the townships and the fact that even today many women have to walk miles for water and still do their washing in the river. It is a sobering thought. We will also remember the excellent job that Ivy did as a tour guide with frequent references to numerous books and Doug who had not only prepared an in-depth plan but also had up his sleeve plans B and C, just in case! >>>

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